Coolant Recommendations. See the FAQ File with more technical information about coolants. Your choice falls into three categories:. My own experience with Dexcool has been positive with one exception: the solder in a Nissen brass radiator began leaking. Dexcool is known to have problems with high-lead solders, and is also sensitive to air levels in cooling systems.
If you don't keep the system topped off to the "min" mark on the reservoir, it may cause scaling and rust precipitation. The last Glysantin alternative is new in the US, although well-known in Europe, and may be the optimal replacement coolant for Volvo.
It has a small amount of silicates to improve corrosion protection for lead and aluminum, but not so much as to precipitate out, and in addition uses an OAT package. This is your best bet, but it is tougher to find. Dexcool Coolant: [From the AC-Delco site:] Neon orange in color, the coolant lasts up to five years ormiles, whichever comes first.
DEX-COOL's benefits include: Lower maintenance costs, due to longer change intervals; enhanced component durability -- improved water pump seal performance and superior heat exchanger protection over regular-life coolants; recyclability. We have in previous articles pointed out that today's coolant inhibitor packages contain a small amount of copper-brass protection, but may provide little protection if a radiator is made with high-lead solder. If you have to change a radiator or heater core, use aluminum.
Or, if it's an older car and the owner wants the lowest-cost radiator, you might procure a soldered-together copper-brass unit. Conventional American coolant should provide better protection against solder corrosion, which can result in radiator tube restrictions and leaks. But no coolant provides perfect protection. Residual amounts of conventional coolants left in the system even after careful draining require that the Dex-Cool be changed at the same interval as any other coolant, every two years.
Also, it finds leaks where typically none previously occurred. From their website: Extreme G is a low-silicate, low-pH, phosphate-free, formula that is designed to protect diesel engine cylinder liners from cavitation. Extreme G05 is safe for both gasoline and diesel engines and is approved by DaimlerChrysler for worldwide MTU applications.Sea slug 5e
Utilizes hybrid organic acid technology to minimize inhibitor depletion; Low-silicate, low-pH and phosphate-free formula; Protects all cooling system metals, including aluminum.
Makeup Water. Which Coolant to Use? See the discussion on Coolant Recommendations. Is that all there is?I have a Volvo V Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two.
I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low should have done it the night before, I realize. Fuel pump or something similar?
Any help is appreciated. This probably is unrelated to the coolant. As long as you are certain that the engine temp did not get hot.Audi recalls
There is a warning light for low coolant in the expansion bottle. This does not mean you ran out of coolant in the engine. There are temperature issues this time of year in some areas.Unzip in unix
If it is getting cold where you are you may just have gotten through summer with a bad engine temp sensor. Now that it is cooler the engine is trying to start too lean.
If the check engine light is not on it is most likely an air temp or coolant temp sensor that is bad. Try starting it over and over again.
Thanks, all. Is that a possibility here, too, or is it more likely that I got that message just because I tried to start the car so many times. Thanks again! Looks like a tow to the shop. My guess is the fuel pump went bad.
Other stuff is coincidental. Are you sure you want to keep this car? A bad MAF mass airflow sensor is another possible for the no start. If you are able to pull the plugs and dissable the fuel pump and the spark then try and crank the engine over. The coolant went somewere the? Remember that due to the low coolant, the temp.
You had mentioned that the coolant level was low and now the engine will not start. Purchase a shop manual and then just start with the basics.Luckily I was only a couple of miles from home and couldn't see any obvious leak so I topped it up and drove on. Upon investigating today, I found the undertray full of coolant and antifreeze stains down the back of the engine. I've located the leak but have no idea what the component is, what it does or how on earth one might go about getting it out!
I haven't any pictures but will describe where it is: There is a stainless coolant pipe that runs over the top of the engine gearbox end and has a Y hose on each end. At the rear of the engine, both the thin and thick hoses from the Y go into the leaking component, which seems to be mounted on the rigid charge air pipe from the air box to the turbo.
The leaking item also has a third small hose that runs to the block. Cheers, Boots. Clan: No, not that one unfortunately. There's another metal one that does a sort of diagonal up-and-over at the gearbox end of the head. The two pipes from the Y that you can see in the photo connect to the leaking thing along with another small bore pipe to the block.How to SUPER FLUSH your Cars Cooling System
I've had a think and don't want to risk driving the car. I've gotta go to work tomorrow and my rather frail mum is pretty ill at the moment so I'm sort of 'on call'.
Fix Coolant Leaks: 2001-2007 Volvo V70
Volvo SARA called It can go to see my friends at MRG on Monday! Thanks both of you anyway. When I find out the full story, I'll post up in case it helps someone else in the future. Best regards, Boots.
Recovery guy has been out. Turns out small rubber hoses I was describing were part of the crankcase ventilation not the cooling system. The metal section was Aluminium not stainless. Although wet, they were innocent. The thinking now is that the heater matrix hose that loops lowest has been chafing on the engine mount and worn through. I'm not convinced as the breather gadget is about 5 inches higher than that and was soaked. I'm not feeling too stupid about mis-identifying the breather pipe as one of its tails goes into the same Alu casting as the top hose from the radiator!
Very mysterious! Anyhow, the recovery chap's had enough so it will be off on a truck tomorrow There is a PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation pipe that lets the fumes from the sump back up to the inlet to be burnt. This is positioned to the left of the vehicle right at the back of the engine bay. This pipe would block if the gases were allowed to condense on the inside so it is heated by a bleed off from the thermostat housing a pipe that allows flow regardless of the thermostat state.
This heating pipe originates at the induction side of the engine, goes over the top and then has an aluminium 'doughnut' about 25mm or so in diameter. This doughnut is pushed onto the PCV pipe male end, and then the female connection pushed on afterwards such that the PCV pipes hold the doughnut in place. The doughnut loop exits to a connection on the exhaust side of the engine.
Coolant — specifications
Over time, the female PCV pipe works a little loose, and then doughnut rattles on the male end. This eventually frets the metal which can give you a leak that you can only find when it's cooking hot. I was losing water and whilst I could smell it, it took an age before I could see it.
Of course, what I should have done was buy a pressure tester and that would have saved months and weeks off the diagnosis, but the rate of loss didn't justify it. The pipe was mostly easy to fit, but where it joins the exhaust side of the engine was a bit of sod to get to. In retrospect, I should have jacked up the car and done that bit from underneath but I was being lazy. I was however paranoid beyond words that I couldn't bleed that pipe, so what I did there was once everything was in place, I left the degas bottle cap on tight, pulled the pipe from the thermostat housing and blocked the exit, then sucked on the pipe till i got water.Lake Chevy helped make these videos.
We are still working to obtain content for your car, however the video above is believed to have similar characteristics as your car. Follow the steps in this video to see how to fix minor coolant antifreeze leaks in your Volvo V Leaking coolant is one of the more common types of fluid leaks on V70s. Engine coolant which is also called antifreeze or anti-freeze moves through the inside of your V70's engine and keeps it from overheating.
Coolant can leak from the reservoir or from the hoses, in V70s with the 2. The video above shows you where the coolant reservoir, hoses and connections on your V70 Base are located and the steps needed to fix minor leaks.
A few things to note about coolant is that it is sweet tasting and highly toxic, so it can end up in the dog's stomach pretty quickly. If you ignore a small coolant leak long enough, you will run out of coolant, which leads to an overheated engine and other serious, but highly avoidable, problems. In many V70s, an anti-freeze leak can cause the temp sensor to record high engine temperatures.
Always protect yourself with safety glasses and gloves when working with the coolant on your V Did you know that the sun wears out wiper blades faster than rain? Replace your blades twice a year. Don't send mixed signals - if your turn signal doesn't blink, or blinks rapidly, you likely have a burnt out bulb. Do you ever get into your friend's car and notice a bad smell? A dirty cabin air filter could be the culprit.
Did you know that heat is worse for your battery than cold? Replace it every 4 years. Getting Started Prepare for the repair. Set Up Paper Position paper and mark wheels. Assess Leak How to determine if the leaking fluid is coolant. Open the Hood How to pop the hood and prop it open.
Find Reservoir Locate the coolant reservoir and clean it.Engine coolant is the working fluid for the cooling system, which controls the operational temperature of the engine. Each combustion event inside your engine creates a lot of heat and the engine needs to be at a certain temperature to operate efficiently.
Engine coolant maintains about the same temperature year round, regardless of ambient temperature. A properly maintained cooling system must have a few things in order: adequate supply of coolant, a radiator that acts as a heat exchanger with the outside air, a fan or air flow source, a water pump to keep the coolant circulating, and a thermostat to regulate the engine at its optimum operating temperature.
The coolant must also have the correct mixture and chemical compounds to promote heat transfer, protect against freezing, and also inhibit corrosion. To keep your Volvo operating correctly, it's important to check the level, strength, and overall condition of the coolant on a regular basis. You also need to change the coolant before it degrades to the point where it doesn't perform its job adequately. One failure mode associated with dirty coolant is known as electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when stray electrical current routes itself through the engine coolant.
The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories, which have not been properly grounded.
A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core.
These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant. Electrolysis can destroy your engine quickly. Although it's semi-normal to have very small amounts of voltage potential in your coolant system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and the metal in your engine. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface.
This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum welds. Cast-iron components are also vulnerable, but typically the aluminum metal parts fail first. The process works somewhat like electrical discharge machines EDM.
These machines work by passing a large electrical current through metal, literally zapping away bits of material until nothing remains. Unfortunately, the electrolysis process works in a similar way, zapping bits of metal in proportion to the amount of electrical current passing through the coolant. A poorly grounded starter can literally destroy a radiator or head within a matter of weeks, depending upon how often the car is started.
A smaller current drain, like an electric cooling fan might slowly erode components over many months. How can you test for electrolysis? Other than actually seeing visible signs of erosion, you can perform a current flow test. Connect the negative terminal of a voltmeter to the chassis ground.
Test for adequate continuity by touching another point on the chassis - the resistance should be near to zero.
With the engine cold and running, submerge the positive probe into the coolant tank, making sure that the probe does not touch any metal parts. The voltage should be less than. If not, methodically turn off or unplug each electrical accessory until the reading reads below. Ground each component and check the voltmeter.
If the wire restores a missing ground connection to the accessory, then you've found a component with a faulty ground. During this test, be sure to check the starter.Fry sight word reading passages
Not only will a poorly grounded starter struggle to turn over the engine, it will also zap away tremendous amounts of metal in your cooling system.The Volvo V70 cooling system is filled through the plastic coolant expansion tank or coolant reservoir at the right front of the engine compartment.
There is no cap on the radiator. Other components of the cooling system consist of:. An electric cooling fan attached to the rear of the radiator. The cooling fan is controlled by the engine control module ECM via an output final stage.
Pressure testing your V70 cooling system is the best way to find leaks. However, not everyone has a pressure tester. I would suggest owning one if you plan to maintain your own vehicles. It can save quite a bit of time when locating a cooling system leak. You can also check for leaks without a pressure tester, but results are less accurate and the procedure is time consuming. I will cover pressure testing in this tech article, as well as some tips on checking for leaks without using one.
Always start with a cool engine. If you do not find the leak, warm the engine with the pressure tester installed. At times, leaks will surface as parts expand from engine heat.
Look for leaks at and around all the components listed above. A cooling system pressure tester is used to pressurize a cooling system and hold it at a specified pressure while looking for leaks. Coolant leaks can be internal i. It is important to take these things into consideration when looking for a coolant leak. If you are losing coolant, but not seeing any on the ground, this would likely be an internal coolant leak. Puddles of coolant found under your vehicle would be from an external leak.
Remember to properly clean any coolant that gets on the ground and properly dispose of it. Place a drain pan under suspected areas of leaks to minimize coolant spills. A pressure tester is the quickest way to find these leaks. Do not remove the expansion tank cap to install the pressure tester while the engine is hot. Coolant or hot steam may escape and will scald you.
To do any work on the cooling system, wait until the engine has cooled off. Keep in mind that when your car was serviced before, parts may have been replaced with different size fasteners used in the replacement.
The sizes of the nuts and bolts we give may be different from what you have, so be prepared with different size sockets and wrenches. Protect your eyes, hands and body from fluids, dust and debris while working on your vehicle.
If you're working with the electrical system, disconnect the battery before beginning. Always catch fluids in appropriate containers and properly dispose of any fluid waste. Recycle parts, packaging and fluids when possible.
Type of Antifreeze for Volvo V70. How Much Do You Need
Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Vehicle models change and evolve, as they grow older, so the vehicle shown in our illustrations may vary slightly from yours. If something seems different, let us know and share your info to help other users.
Do you have questions or want to add to the article? Leave a comment below. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information. When pressure testing a cooling system, be sure the vehicle is cool and lacks pressure.Lake Ford helped make these videos. We are still working to obtain content for your car, however the video above is believed to have similar characteristics as your car. Follow the steps in this video to see how to fix minor coolant antifreeze leaks in your Volvo V Leaking coolant is one of the more common types of fluid leaks on V70s.
Engine coolant which is also called antifreeze or anti-freeze moves through the inside of your V70's engine and keeps it from overheating.
Coolant can leak from the reservoir or from the hoses, in V70s with the 2. The video above shows you where the coolant reservoir, hoses and connections on your V70 AWD are located and the steps needed to fix minor leaks.
A few things to note about coolant is that it is sweet tasting and highly toxic, so it can end up in the dog's stomach pretty quickly. If you ignore a small coolant leak long enough, you will run out of coolant, which leads to an overheated engine and other serious, but highly avoidable, problems. In many V70s, an anti-freeze leak can cause the temp sensor to record high engine temperatures. Always protect yourself with safety glasses and gloves when working with the coolant on your V Checking your brake fluid from time to time is a great way to ensure safe stopping.
Dirty cabin air filter cause undue wear on your car's heater and AC and can cause bad odors. Minor transmission fluid leaks can often be fixed with the right sealant - see how to do this. DRLs are on more than your headlights. They burn out faster and should be replaced regularly. Cars burn, leak and otherwise dispense of their oil.
Check your level frequently and top up when necessary. Getting Started Prepare for the repair. Set Up Paper Position paper and mark wheels.
Assess Leak How to determine if the leaking fluid is coolant. Open the Hood How to pop the hood and prop it open. Find Reservoir Locate the coolant reservoir and clean it.
Check Level Determine the coolant level.
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